The Great Waitaki Valley - Pt 2

Fair to say, the 'Morrie' Oxford was a beast. I can't recall any mechanical mishaps on our numerous family trips, apart from a shattered windscreen near the Waihao Forks pub, previously mentioned in Part 1 of the Waitaki River Valley story and I seem to remember Dad being almost grateful for the location of said set back.

I've always believed in 'old mates' reinforcement of the claim that there's a lot of wisdom in the bottom of a glass. I'm sure Dad agreed that stinking hot car window screenless day near Waiho, as no doubt did those early pioneers who worked in such extremes of conditions building the hydro works, would've sought a glass or several also.

The leaving of Kurow

A great Irish folk band, the Fureys, sing a stunning song about 'The leaving of Nancy'. It's of a young lad farewelling his Mum as he heads off to seek his fortune. The song has other interpretations too, though the sentiment of moving on in life's travels, remains alive and well.

Your Kurow experience may not have been as deep as meaningful as the thread of the Furey's song, though the correlation here is that the Waitaki Valley offers a brand new perspective and character, as you head further inland and west towards Omarama.

Initially the river is handy, deep and magnificent and in no time at all after departing Kurow, you find find yourself at the smallest and oldest of the lakes on the river's hydro system, Lake Waitaki.

There's a largely deserted village here with housing established in the 1930's to house the dam workers. Some of the impressive stone houses have been refurbished and there are some stunning accommodation options available. The village is on the Alps to Ocean cycle trail and is also a very popular trout fishing and hiking spot.
For what it's worth the village is For sale, just inquire within.

What are the lakes like for water sports ?

All the Waitaki lakes are generally safe for boating, swimming and fishing. Though the infamous nor'west wind which can funnel down this and other South Island inland valleys from the mountains as a warm foehn wind, is not to be trifled with. In short, unless you're on an ocean liner, best not to venture out on the water in it !
Remember the lakes can look quite benign, though the weather can change quickly and the nor'west is more likely in spring and summer.

However if you've got your golf clubs with you, there's always the course at Kurow 10 minutes back down the road, or the 9 hole course further up the road at Otematata.

Aviemore & the dammed lakes

Distances from one point to the next aren't great nor challenging, with Lake Aviemore virtually popping up along side as you leave the Lake Waitaki environs and with it the next dam on the river. Here you can choose to travel the other side of the lake by crossing the dam, as the roads meets up again. There's some vast farm land on the other side of the lake too, with some beautiful homesteads set back of the road.

Aviemore is also a very popular water sports lake and picnic places abound. Many trailer yacht squandrons convene here for racing over the summer months, especially Labour and Waitangi weekends. One of the most prominent groups are often the Farr and Nolex classes. The Farr 7.5 metre class, sticks in the memory, as the boats of that genre carried names related to the long running MASH television show.

So keep an eye out for 'Hotlips' or 'Hawkeye', as these are boats of that class that truly exist !

The 'big smoke' of Otematata

Incredibly you're only 28kms further on from Kurow when you hit the thriving metropolis of Otematata.
It's a town of probably around 200 people. Why the guess ? Well it's often described as a populated area less than a town, whatever that means, other than clearly people come and go.
Yet it's got everything. A supermarket, a pub, fuel, accommodation and cafe.
It's most outstanding characteristic is that it's right at the bottom of the massive Benmore dam and power station.

What's to do here?

You can cycle, like the punters on the Alps to Ocean cycle trail do, drive or walk across the dam and take in the enormous valley view, Benmore is the largest earthern dam in New Zealand and the second largest producer of electricity. You'll notice the power lines swinging off in all directions, as you stand atop the dam and above the huge valley expanse. There used to be tours through the dam complex where you'd see the mighty turbines and inner workings, though if you're about when water is gushing down the spillway, then that too is a sight to behold.
Also the shores around the bottom of the dam are excellent spots for 'messing about in boats', just as the whole area is a fishing enthusiasts playground. Remember too the 9 hole golf course that's handy.

Rolling further west to Omarama

The road gets a little hilly as you gain enough elevation to get alongside the west arm of Lake Benmore. This shoreline features lots of little bays and is yet another popular destination for boaties and those after the fish stocks. The lake holds large numbers of brown and rainbow trout and landlocked salmon, with pheasant tail and dragon fly nymphs being 'old mate' Esmonds' favourite way of catching them.
The Alps to Ocean cycle trail also skirts along the lakeside and one of the most well known points on the road and cycle trail is Sailors Cutting campground. Swimming, boating, fishing or just relaxing, this is a beautiful spot to stop.

What's cell phone coverage like? In a word – dodgy!

How far to Omarama?

Omarama is just under 13kms from Sailors Cutting, or about 10 mins by car. The land opens up again approaching the town which is situated on the southern perimeter of the Mackenzie country basin.
It sits at the junction of State Highways 8 and 83, being a little less than 4 hours travel to Christchurch and about 2 and a quarter hours to Queenstown.

Is there much happening here?

While Omarama is a key stopover on the Alps to Ocean cycle trail, it's also something of a destination town in its own right. About 300 people live here.
There are good eating and accommodation choices here, as well as the indoor / outdoor hot tub experience. This features mineral water from the local hills in an excellent setting for different mountain views, notwithstanding the healing and soothing qualities of these things. It's little the wonder the hikers and bikers love it!

Omarama is also a centre for world gliding. The sunny climate, dramatic geography and thermal activity, make for outstanding gliding conditions, with many a championship and gliding record set here.
Flights are relatively inexpensive and generally offer a 100% weather related refund.
Fishing in the nearby Ahuriri River, hiking in the conservation park of the same name or a visit to the local clay cliffs, are recommended side trips.

The Clay Cliffs

The cliffs are only 10kms away and stand like the 'badlands' from the Utah desert or some such. Sharp pinnacles and ridges, interspersed with deep ravines, the cliffs are around 20 million years old and were created by layers of silt and gravel from ancient lakes and rivers. The Cliffs are on private land. There's a donation box at the gate where you can pay the $5 vehicle admission fee which helps upkeep the road. To get to the Cliffs, turn onto Quailburn Rd off SH8 and then onto unsealed Henburn Rd.

Being part of what is known as 'the interior' of the South Island, these areas can experience extremes in temperatures, scorching hot in summer, yet bitterly cold in the winter, so you've been warned !

What else is there to do?

The Wrinkly Rams merino show and cafe is a fun theme, as is bird watching at the Kaki visitor hide, or you might prefer a high country farm visit or 4WD trip into the heart of the mountains.
Worth noting that Omarama also has one of the most up to date and busiest vehicle service stations anywhere.

Farewell Omarama.

You've 3 options now, to go back the way you came, turn left and head south through the Lindis Pass to Wanaka and Queenstown, or hang right and north through the Mackenzie, via Twizel and Tekapo to Christchurch.
Whichever way, the 'roadie' is a classic, so download your favourite driving songs, point your wheels in your chosen direction and crank up those sounds..

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